Italy intensified its efforts against food fraud in 2024 by focusing heavily on olive oil. The Italian Inspectorate for Quality and Fraud Prevention (ICQRF) conducted over 8,200 inspections targeting vegetable oils out of a total of 54,000 food inspections. These checks included samples of extra virgin olive oil, with 23% of them revealing irregularities—such as discrepancies between product labels and actual contents. The operation resulted in 72 criminal reports, 896 administrative penalties, 843 formal warnings, and the seizure of 455,000 kg of non-compliant olive oil, worth more than €4 million (oliveoiltimes.com).

This initiative leverages Italy’s national digital olive oil registry (RTO), real-time monitoring, and a specialized enforcement unit to track and prevent fraud. In 2023, actions included uncovering mismatches between physical inventories and digital records in Veneto, intercepting schemes in Umbria and Tuscany that repackaged seed or lampante oils as premium Italian extra virgin, and halting sales of mislabeled products—like €230,000 worth of non-Taggiasca oil sold as authentic in Liguria. The program even led to cross-border interventions, such as seizing nearly 92 tons of misbranded vegetable oil at Italy’s border with France. (oliveoiltimes.com)

If this much was caught how much gets through?

The olive oil industry in Italy is plagued by fraud and counterfeiting, where criminal organizations blend high-quality olive oil with lower-grade oils to produce counterfeit products. These illicit activities are highly profitable and often involve sophisticated techniques that make detection difficult, leading to risks for consumer health and economic damage to legitimate producers.

Specialized police units, like the NAS, are actively working to combat these crimes, using advanced technologies and international collaboration. In 2023, they seized 380 tons of illegal olive oil worth over €2 million, highlighting the scale of the issue.

Investigations reveal that criminal networks often manipulate the production process and falsify records to market counterfeit products as genuine extra virgin olive oil. These operations involve complex schemes that include international trade, blending, and advanced fraud techniques, making enforcement challenging and requiring ongoing efforts from both national and international agencies.

Buying from local suppliers like Apollo Olive Oil, known for their short supply chains, can help ensure you receive high-quality products. These short supply chains reduce the risk of adulteration and fraud, as the entire production process is more transparent and easier to monitor. By supporting local producers, consumers can have greater confidence in the authenticity and quality of the olive oil they purchase.

For more detailed information on how olive oil fraud operates and the methods used by Italian law enforcement to combat it, visit this article.

During this uncertain fire season here in California, we are often asked the question, “Will the smoke from the fires affect the olive oil?” Most of the studies regarding the effects of smoke have been done on wine grapes, and have found evidence that it can affect wines. However, olives and their processing are different from wine grapes and their processing. The skins of olives are much thicker and more waxy than grapes, so the inner pulp is well protected from damage. Furthermore, unlike wine grapes, olives are washed before crushing, which removes any residues on the skins. Finally, ashes don’t dissolve in oil, but can dissolve in the water of grape juice. The smoke related components of concern are naturally occurring and generally widespread. They can be found at very small concentrations in most foods, even when there have been no fire incidents. A study from Greece after major files in 2007 found no more evidence of smoke related compounds than during years with little to no fire incidents. The biggest reasons appear to be that olives have tough skins and are thoroughly washed before processing.

Here are excerpts from an interview done with Dr. Simon Poole from a recent COOC newsletter that we found very interesting.

When I first read your keynote title, I thought it would make a good title for a movie! Tell us why you have named the title of your talk simply; “Of all the Gifts of Heaven”?

One of your Presidents, Thomas Jefferson said; “Of all the gifts of Heaven to man, the olive is next to the most precious, if it be not the most precious,” He was a man ahead of his time, a farmer, a connoisseur, a lover of olive oil and an advocate of healthy eating. I suspect that if he were running for president he would campaign to “Make America Well Again”, and I wanted to make the message of health and sustainability of the Mediterranean Diet and extra virgin olive oil the theme of my talk.

When and how did you first become interested in extra virgin olive oil?

As a working physician with a great interest in lifestyle medicine, I saw great changes in my patients who adopted the Mediterranean Diet with regular enjoyment of extra virgin olive oil. I have become a passionate ambassador for extra virgin olive oil and now travel to lecture to the public, health professionals, producers, importers and retailers to educate and advocate the extraordinary benefits of this most wonderful food.

Would you kindly share one of your favorite olive oil recipes with our members?

Extra virgin olive oil is so versatile and is so wonderful to cook with and also to “anoint” on any dish to add flavor and texture. It can be combined with any food and even pairs really well with deserts and ice cream.  I particularly love this simple recipe from the co-author of our book The Olive Oil Diet, Judy Ridgway which mixes fruit, cheese and extra virgin olive oil;

PECORINO SALAD WITH FRUIT AND OLIVES

This really is an all-the-year round salad.  Choose fruit in season and any kind of good green olives. Serve as a first course or as a good lunchtime snack with plenty of wholemeal bread.

Serves 4

3 tender lettuce hearts, washed and drained

1 pink grapefruit, peeled and segmented

1 sweet apple. Cored and cut into dice

200g Pecorino cheese, crumbled or diced

100g green table olives

6cm cucumber, diced

2 small spring onions, finely chopped

Juice of 1 lemon

5 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

Tear the lettuce leaves into pieces by hand and use to line a salad bowl.

Cut the grapefruit segments into small pieces and mix with the apples, cheese, olives, cucumber and spring onion.  Spoon this mixture onto the lettuce leaves.

Beat the lemon juice with olive oil to taste and pour over the salad.  Mix carefully and serve at once.

Dr Simon Poole is a Cambridge based medical doctor, author, broadcaster and commentator and an internationally renowned authority on the science and application of the Mediterranean diet and lifestyle. He is an expert scientific consultant on extra virgin olive oil and a member of the Advisory Board of the Olive Wellness Institute, Australia and an advisor to the Yale Olive Institute, Yale University. His award-winning book, The Olive Oil Diet, takes a fresh and exciting look at diet, foods, cooking and health, on a gastronomic journey which tells the story of ingredients from around the Mediterranean with a focus on the delivery of health through olive oil. 

The US is not the only country dealing with fraud found in imported olive oil. In a February publication, Germany’s watchdog group, Stiftung Warentest, found that half of the 26 extra virgin olive oils they tested were not actually extra virgin. In 5 of the olive oils coming from Greece and Portugal they found high levels of oil hydrocarbons possibly coming from motor fumes. They recommended that the sales of these olive oils cease immediately. The rest of the defective oils came from Spain and Italy. They also found that 4 out of the 6 organic oils they tested were deficient..

Apparently these brands are not sold in the US, but it points to the greater systemic problem of large olive oil producers unscrupulously cutting costs and exporting the oil. Wherever fraudulent oil is priced below the cost of producing authentic olive oil, honest producers suffer. Fortunately, more and more consumers are becoming aware of these practices and are beginning to recognize the difference between fraudulent products and real extra virgin olive oil.